Early Month
1. Transplanting:
a.This is the best time to transplant
cryptomeria, needle juniper, citrus trees, pomegranate,
crape myrtle, and willows.
b. Conifers: Missed transplanting in March? This
can still be done in April after the bud nipping. In March,
transplanted trees were immediately placed in direct sun.
However, in April, sudden increases in temperature and
unforeseeable strong wind occur. Therefore, trees
transplanted this month need protection for a week or so
before they are exposed to the full sun. Also during this
period, turning the pots around once a week benefits the
growth of trees. The sun will warm the turned pots evenly to
stimulate the roots, and the foliage will receive the light
it needs.
2. Spring Fertilization:
a. Wait three weeks before fertilizing any
transplanted trees. After the first application, fertilize
once a month until October.
b. Fruit/berry bearing trees: Confirm that the fruit or
berry buds have formed and stabilized before fertilizing.
The first applications should be liquid fertilizer, followed
by cake fertilizer every two weeks or at monthly intervals.
c. For maple and other trees that need control of new bud
growth to maintain the delicate appearance of branch tips,
fertilizer application should start only after the bud
nipping is finished.
d. Remove fertilizer when temperature goes above 90° F.
|
Plant Species
|
Pot Size
|
Number of 1 inch cakes
|
Application Frequency
|
|
Black pine, needle junipers
|
12"
|
8
|
Once a month April to October
|
|
Other conifers, flowering & fruit/berry
trees
|
12"
|
4
|
|
Deciduous trees
|
12"
|
2
|
2. Satsuki blooming can be controlled to some
degree by transplanting at this time if a delay in blooming
is desired. If there are too many flower buds, thinning
should be done now. Cut back overgrown new shoots and spray
with Benolate to prevent flower blight damage.
Mid-Month
4. Black Pine -- Spring candle nipping:
a. When the candle reaches its height and the
needle buds (like pimples) appear on the candle, it is time
to nip the candle. First, decide on the height of the apex
and nip the candle accordingly. Even if no more height is
desired, leave a few buds on anyway.
b. On a finished pine in good health that was
transplanted LAST year (not this year), the candle can be
removed from the base as is done in the shortening of pine
needles. The new buds will develop within two weeks the new
buds will develop, and by October those buds will become new
shorter needles. This method is better for the Bay Area,
where the weather is cool and the regular method of needle
shortening does not work so well. Also, this method allows
the apex height to remain the same and induces new buds on
the branches. Leave the inside branchlets alone. Eliminate
all needle buds growing downwards. After 10 days, eliminate
all strong buds.
Late-Month
5. Air-layering: The time to air-layer deciduous
trees is as soon as the new leaves are stabilized.
6. Attaining new flower buds for next year:
a. Ume -- Cut back, leaving 3-4 leaf buds on each branch.
Let the secondary buds grow until you are certain that
the new flower buds are set.
b. Crabapple and karin -- Leave 2-3 strong wild
branches on to slow down the growth of the other desired
branches that will produce the flower buds. In the fall,
cut off the wild branches.
c. Bittersweet -- Recognize the berry buds; cut off
beyond the next bud.
7. Miyama kirishima, kurume tsutsuji (kiusianum and
kurume azaleas) -- Clean after flowering. Cut back and
transplant.
8. Ezo spruce, cryptomeria and needle juniper --
When the buds grow to about one inch long, pinch back
with fingers to about 1/3 the length.
| 
April Work
Schedule
