Kusamura Bonsai Club

February Work Schedule

	Adapted from Golden Statements articles by Mitsuo Umehara (Translated by Hideko Metaxas)
	Early Month 1. February and March are the busiest time of the year for the bonsai person. All of the heaviest "work" is done during this time, including styling, root pruning, and the potting of collected material. Don't forget the last dormant spray at this time. 2. Transplanting of deciduous trees should be done in the order of the bud's movement. Akebia first, then karin, quince, some maples, stewartia and beech. Transplanting at this time allows drastic root-pruning and severe elimination of old soil. This must be done with extreme care so that the water-line (soft root surfaces) will not be damaged. After-care for transplanted trees: Protect from sudden frost and heavy rain. Select an area that gives you maximum sun exposure. With the warmth of the sun, the buds will start to move within three weeks. Then start fertilizing with a diluted liquid fertilizer.   Mid-Month 3. Time to work on Satsuki azaleas. Remove dead leaves, cut back where needed and re-shape. Go through all the surface work first, marking the pots that need transplanting at the end of the month. 4. Any deciduous trees not transplanted this year are ready for fertilizer. The first dosage should be diluted liquid fertilizer. Any hard wood cuttings should be done before the buds start to move. 5. If you have a maple group planting that is too tall and the crown area becomes too heavy, you may want to air-layer that portion. It must be done before the buds start to move. By June enough roots should have developed to separate the air-layered portion. When separating it, cut all the leaves from it to minimize the shock and to balance with the new roots which are now on their own to feed the entire little tree. Let the new buds on the original tree grow to make a new crown. Cut back and shape the rest of the group planting. You now have two bonsai. Japanese people will say, "One stone hits two birds". Late-Month 6. Transplanting: All conifers except cryptomeria and needle juniper All remaining deciduous trees All flowering/fruiting trees except crapemyrtle, pomegranate, and citrus. 7. Purposes of replanting are to: Avoid problems of root-bound trees Improve soil conditions Upgrade to better pots 8. Ten cardinal rules for transplanting: Timing, selecting the perfect time to transplant is an art in itself Avoid heavy wiring either just before or just after transplanting. After heavy top pruning prune the roots similarly. The tree above and below the soil should always be in balance. Select the pot carefully. Study the harmony between plant and pot. Withhold water before transplanting. Bonsai should be on the dry side. When loosening soil around the root ball, be very careful not to damage the root waterline [soft root system surfaces]. Always use sharp scissors to cut roots. Never pull them off. Once the position, height, and angle in the pot are correct, the plant must be FIRMLY SECURED in the pot. The new soil must be well sifted and dry before use. No cavities or air pockets should exist in the container soil.

Last Updated February 13, 2003.

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