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SUMMER IS
COMING—ARE YOU READY?
From GSBF by Marty Mann
As the
spring Equinox passed in March, all the new growth and
awakening buds should have developed with new vigor—on the
brink of summer.
Continue the ongoing process of snipping new growth as soon
as it hardens. Do so early in May before the more aggressive
new growth of summer creates long and undesirable
internodes. By constant reshaping and cutting back the
growth of deciduous trees, you encourage delicate side
branching and a softer overall look. The object of cutting
new growth is to maintain a relationship between the size of
the leaves and branches to the overall size of the tree. The
process of cutting encourages branch thickening and adds an
aged look. Watch the exposed end cuts. Apply a tree seal or
just old- fashioned Elmer's glue to large cuts or carvings.
Pine grooming takes place in May or June. The removal of
candles and prior year needles is most important. The
techniques shown by visiting Japanese masters suggested the
pruning of pine branches to form clusters of 6 to 10 needles
at the end of each branch. Leave some growing needles to
improve the likelihood of new bud formation on the old wood
and the formation of new side branching. New pine buds
customarily grow around the sheath covers surrounding needle
clusters. Take care not to damage these sheaths.
When removing candles on Black Pines, start with the
shortest candles first. Then, a week or so later, remove the
medium and finally the largest. This staggered routine
evenly balances the tree's growth and the related needle
lengths. Don't start too early in May—later in June may be
better. The longer summer growing season encourages long,
unwanted internodes. Routine plucking and removal of old
prior year needles should be done. Trimming Hinoki Cypress
late in May allows fresh new growth throughout the summer
months. In all cases, be sure your tree is healthy before
you trim. Feed a low nitrogen food at least two weeks prior
to any major cutting. Watch the large cuts—pines do not need
any tree seal applications since the pitch itself seals.
Pay attention to the azaleas in your collection. March and
April were the best months to repot and trim last year’s
spring whips and branches. Since May is the blooming season
for most bonsai varieties (remember-Satsuki means 5th month)
you may enjoy the flowers without any concern for feeding
and trimming. Keep the plants moist but avoid overhead
watering as this causes the blooms to lose their color and
vigor. Cut any shoots that have outgrown the design
perimeters.
After the flowers reach their peak, remove the faded blooms.
A flat cut at the base of the flower removes excessive stem
elongation and allows new buds to form during the warmth of
summer. Azaleas create new flower bud formations for next
year.
Keep watering down to a minimum—just enough to keep moisture
in the root ball full of fine root hairs. The single most
common factor that kills azaleas is the tendency to over
water. Frequent deep watering accumulates in a peat enriched
soil mix and causes root rot. Water whenever the surface
begins to feel dry. Your finger in the soil is still the
best test instrument.
Watering instruction, at best, is an imprecise activity.
Many factors enter into the decision such as time,
frequency, and type of soil mix. Changing conditions such as
a sheltered or windy environment affects how the watering
process benefits the tree, and for how long. Various light
conditions also affect the ability of the tree to absorb and
then transpire its moisture. The overall objective for any
type of material is keeping it damp, not wet and never dry.
May is a treacherous time for the tender new leaves of
maples, liquid ambers, birch, beech and elms. Hot weather
and blowing winds quickly dry the leaves and turn them brown
on the edges. Avoid direct, strong sunlight. Avoid deep
shade that encourages spindly and weak branches.
Semi-anything is best. Keep trimming new shoots back to two
or three sets of leaves. Balance the density of the tree by
selective trimming in all areas from the apex to the lower
branches .
Evergreens and conifers must also be attended to early in
the summer season. Continue to pinch back (fingers are still
the best tool) the growing tips of evergreens. Spread this
activity out over several days. Start low on the tree and
work up to its apex.
The growing season requires feeding on a regular basis. A
high phosphorus and potassium formula with a low nitrogen
content produces healthy roots and wood development and
inhibits excessive green growth. A mix of cottonseed meal
(70%) and bone meal (30%) can be altered by adding various
trace elements and iron supplements to produce better fruit
and flower buds next year. Don’t feed plants that appear to
be suffering from summer stress due to oppressive heat or
moisture deprivation. Application of a dry fertilizer mix
often cakes on top of the soil and provides a steady release
of nutrients to the tree. Stir the surface to break up the
cakes.
The end of May through the early weeks of June is usually
the best time to air layer deciduous trees (i.e., Maples,
Liquid Ambers, Zelcova, Elms, etc.) or conifers (i.e.,
Pines, Larches, Junipers, etc.) While the sap is still
running freely in the tree, the bark will slip more easily.
Keep checking the root growth before attempting any layered
section removal.
Check your root over rock plantings from last year.
It may be time to remove
most of the wire and start brushing away some of the muck
and moss to expose the trunk and roots. The surfaces of the
roots should be taking on the texture and color of the bark
of the tree.
Take new cuttings at this time of vigorous growth. Dip the
damp cuttings into a powdered rooting hormone. Insert
cuttings into pure sand or perlite to assure a well- drained
mix. Keep the mix moist and out of direct sunlight until
signs of new growth appear.
Reminder:
• When everything’s coming your way, you’re
in the wrong lane and
going the wrong way.
• No one is listening until you make a mistake.
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