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Seasonal
Suggestions |
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September Suggestions
By Mr. Umehara
September
Early Month
1.
Five Needle Pines (Shikoku and Miyajima variety)
a. A grafted five-needle pine is stronger than ones started
from seeds, making it more durable in the area where the
environment is different from its native location. Even
though, the following instruction is for
the grafted trees, it only applies to the very healthy
grafted trees.
After the needles are fully opened on this year's candle,
buds for two candles will form. Nipping these buds (strong
one's only) will induce yet more buds. These buds will stay
until spring; remove old needles at the same time.
b. Yatsubusa variety. Removal of this year's second growth
will induce yet additional new buds. However, these buds
will not grow till next spring. In comparison to Kokonoe
and the other Yatsubusa variety, the Zuisho, have stronger
lower branches. In order to balance the growing
power, remove less old needles from the crown area and more
from the lower area. In other works. reverse the normal
rules of needle reduction.
c. Five-needle pines started from seedlings are not as
strong as the grafted ones. So, it is preferred that the
bud nipping be done only once in the spring. In the fall,
just shape the trees. Change the apex if necessary;
redirect branch tips if needed.
2.
Black Pine (exclude the pines in the needle shortening
schedule).
a. The trees must be in good health
b. Cut off this year's growth at the base
c. Remove old needles, removing more from the top area and
less from the lower area. This is to balance the growing
power and to induce new buds. The buds will not grow till
next spring, but this is a good way to start new branches on
your young developing trees.
3.
Fertilizer. Autumn feeding should be applied generously.
a. Flowering/fruit/berry trees: Cake fertilizer with bone
meal.
b. Deciduous trees: 0-10-10
4.
Watering. Adjust watering as the daylight becomes shorter.
5.
Sunlight. The deciduous trees kept under semi-shaded area
should now be brought out gradually to full-sun exposure.
6.
Spray. The pests such as red spider, caterpillar, looper,
and farias reseifoera (eats Satsuki buds), etc., will damage
your trees. Don't forget to keep them under control.
Mid and Late Month
Mid-September through end of October is a good period to
shape and transplant varieties of trees. Some of those are:
black pine, red ping, Nishiki-Matsu, Goyo-Matsu, cypress,
redwood, yew, yezo-spruce, cedar, shimpaku, (maple, kaede),(
quince, sinensis), jasminum nudiflorum, crabapple, cherry,
plums, pyracanthus, hawthorne, and others.
7. Pinching. Those trees you have been pinching all through
the growing season such as cryptomeria, needle juniper,
shimpaku, and redwood trees, receive the final pinching and
shaping.
8. Visit as many other club exhibitions as possible. Not
only good for the friendship between the clubs, but will
also help to improve one's own trees.
9. Karin (chaenomeles sinensis) and crabapple's branches
that were allowed to grow wildly, now must be cut back, The
first cut, take two-thirds off; after all foliage has
dropped and the tree is bare, cut to the finished length and
shape.
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