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Kusamura Bonsai Club


Adapted from Golden Statements articles by Mitsuo Umehara (Translated by Hideko Metaxas)

Early August

1. Summer watering (when temperature is 85 degrees)

  • Deciduous trees, and trees with set fruit such as akebia, karin, crabapple, bittersweet, citrus, persimmon, etc.: water as many times as necessary, or move trees to a shady area. They must not be allowed to dry out.
     
  • For any bonsai whose trunk base is raised higher than the pot's edge or that is root-bound, soak in water first. When the soil is softened, spike several deep holes with chopstick or pick and pour in some sand. This will improve water penetration.
     
  • Willows, tamarix, and other water-loving trees: place bonsai in a shallow tray filled with water.

2. Controlling Red Spider

  • With hot weather, red spider may invade and ruin the color of pines and shimpaku. Spray with Malathion, Orthene, or dusting sulphur. Must repeat two to three times at ten-day intervals, as the eggs will keep hatching.
     
  • Conifers: Daily evening mist-spraying the leaves will prevent damage from red spider.

Mid-August

3. Midsummer cuttings

  • Starting midsummer cuttings differs from starting cuttings at other times of year in that the pot with the cutting should be placed in a shallow tray of water.
     
  • Materials suitable for midsummer cuttings are quince, choyu-bai hime, and other members of the contoneaster family.
     
  • The cuttings should be made from matured branches from this year's growth.
     
  • Put a layer of coarse decomposed granite (d.g.) in the bottom of a small pot (the height of the d.g. is the trick to this method: it should be even with the water level of the shallow tray.
     
  • Fill the rest of the pot with regular sand and proceed with cuttings. Place in water tray and in full sun. Cuttings will root in a short time.

 

Late August

 

4. Beech

  • A characteristic and a drawback of beech is that the new buds for next year will form only on the last two to three leaves at the tip, which creates an elongated branchlet.
     
  • To control this elongation, start cutting the branchlets back in the latter part of August, weak ones first. Finish the cut-back by early September. Cut back to the last two to three leaves on each branch; cut those leaves off, leaving one-twelfth to one-tenth of an inch attached to the branches.
     
  • Leaf buds will form at the base of cut leaves. This cutting will also induce new buds on last year's branches and stimulate inner branchlets to grow as sunlight penetrates through.

 

5. Nishiki-Matsu

This year's growth will be cut back during late August through early September. New buds will form immediately, but will not grow until next year. Pull some old needles from the tip and clean up.

6. Shimpaku, five-needle and black pines

Trees being considered for the autumn show can be shaped and transplanted now. Transplant as you would in the spring; water generously, and mist-spray the top portion for awhile.

7. Grass

Assorted group plantings of grass materials can be made at this time. Select what's in season and put them together. HAVE FUN!

 


Last Updated August 4, 2002.
Copyright © 2002, by Kusamura Bonsai Club. All Rights Reserved.