|
|
Early July
1. Satsuki azaleas -- continuation of work begun at the
end of June:
Shaping and cut-back:
Reduce branchlets to two branches and two leaves on each
branchlet.
For those branches that have reached the desired length,
cut all the way back to last year's leaflets.
For matured trees, cut branches back more than the length
you have in mind. This will give you "just right" length and
shape by the end of the flowering season. Cut back to the
two-year-old branch, and eliminate excess branchlets.
Transplanting:
March is the best time to transplant Satsuki azaleas.
However, after the flowering and cut-back is also a good
time to transplant. Keep in mind that the amount of root
reduction must equal the amount of branch reduction. It's
dry season in California, so be sure to protect trees in a
shade area. Mist-spray leaves for a week or so after
transplanting.
Cuttings
- Careful selection of the cuttings is required to
retain the true characteristics and colors of the
variety.
- Select strong branches for cuttings.
- Planting soil should be either vermiculite or sand,
four inches deep. Space the cuttings in the soil so that
the leaves of the cuttings are barely touching each
other. Protect in semi-shade area. Mist-spray two to
three times a day. In 40 to 50 days, the cuttings will
root and be ready to transplant.
2. Treatment for accidentally dried out deciduous trees:
- Move to a shady area. Mist-spray wilted leaves and
water the pot generously.
- If the three doesn't recover within 24 hours, tilt
the pot and drain all excess water out. Mist-spray the
leaves daily. In a week or so, all the wilted leaves will
fall off, and within the next couple of weeks the new
buds will form.
- Return the pot to its normal location and return to
routine maintenance.
- CAUTION: While in recovery, do not water the pot.
This will cause root-rot. Do not fertilize.
Mid-July
3. Air-layered deciduous trees:
- The deciduous trees that were air-layered in May
should be showing white roots, visible through the
plastic covering. Rotate the pot so that the roots will
develop evenly all around the trunk perimeter.
- Assuming sphagnum moss was used in the initial
air-layering, when five to six roots change color to
brown, replace the plastic cover with a six- to
seven-inch plastic pot.
- Slit one side of the pot all the way down to the
bottom. Widen the drainage hole so that it is big enough
to fit around the tree trunk easily.
- Remove the plastic from the root ball and slip the
plastic pot on around it. Secure it tightly to the tree
with tape. Fill the plastic pot with a soil mixture of
one-half sand and one-half peat. Water the pot once every
two or three days.
- By the beginning of September, the plastic pot should
be filled with new roots. Detach from the mother tree,
shape, and plant in a bonsai pot.
Late July
4. Five needle pine and black pine:
The needles that are now fully grown and becoming dense
need to be thinned out in order to even out the growth power
and let the sun penetrate to allow the smaller inner
branchlets to grow.
You may also want to read last July's newsletter for more
tips. Click here.
|
|
July Work
Schedule
