Kusamura Bonsai Club

September Work Schedule

	Adapted from Golden Statements articles by Mitsuo Umehara (Translated by Hideko Metaxas)
	Early September 1. Five Needle Pines (Shikoku and Miyajima varieties) Grafted five-needle pines are stronger than those started from seeds, which makes it more durable in environments different from its native location. Nonetheless, the following instructions apply only to very healthy grafted trees. After the needles are fully opened on this year's candle, buds for two candles will form. Nipping these buds (strong ones only) will induce yet more buds. These will stay until spring; remove old needles at the same time.   Yatsubusa variety. Removing this year's second growth will induce yet more new buds. However, these buds will not grow until next spring. In comparison to Kokonoe and the other Yatsabusa varieties, Zushio have stronger lower branches. In order to balance the growing power, remove fewer old needles from the crown area and more from the lower area. In other words, reverse the normal rules for needle reduction [plucking].   Five needles pines started from seedlings are not as strong as grafted ones. Therefore, it is preferable to nip buds only once, in the spring. In the fall, just shape the trees. Change the apex if necessary; redirect the branch tips if needed. 2. Black Pine. (exclude pines in needle-shortening schedule) The trees must be in good health.   Cut off this year's growth at the base. Remove old needles, taking more from the top area and less from the lower area. This is to balance the growing power and to induce new buds. The buds will not grow till next spring, but this is a good way to start new branches on your young, developing trees. 3. Fertilizer. Autumn feeding should be applied generously. Flowering/fruit/berry trees: Cake fertilizer with bone meal.   Deciduous trees: 0-10-10. 4. Watering. Adjust watering as daylight becomes shorter. 5. Sunlight. The deciduous trees kept in semi-shaded areas should now be brought out gradually into full sun exposure. 6. Spray. Pests such as red spider, caterpillar, looper, and Farias reseifoera (eats Satsuki buds), etc., will damage your trees. Dont forget to keep them under control. Mid- to Late-September Mid-September through the end of October is a good period to shape and transplant many varieties of trees. Some of those are: Black pine, red pine, Nishiki-Matsu, Goyo-Matsu, cypress, redwood, yew, yezo-spruce, cedar, shimpaku, maple, Trident Maple, flowering quince, Chinese quince, Jasminum nudiflorum, crabapple, cherry, plum, pyracantha, and hawthorn. 7. Pinching. Those trees you have been pinching all through the growing season, such as cryptomeria, needle juniper, shimpaku, and redwood trees, receive the final pinching and shaping in late September. 8. Visit as many other club exhibitions as possible. This is not only good for the friendship between the clubs, but will also help you to improve your own trees. 9. Karin (Chaenomeles sinensis) and crabapple branches that have been allowed to grow wildly must now be cut back. On the first cut, take off two-thirds. After all the foliage has dropped and the tree is bare, cut the branches to the finished length and shape.

Last Updated September 1, 2006.

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